Baños, meaning baths in Spanish, is located in Ecuador which means equator. This small, charming town is located about three hours south of the capital, Quito. It’s known for lush landscape, an abundance of waterfalls, thermal baths and ironically, some of the best Indian food I’ve ever had.
The drive down to Baños would be rather boring if it weren’t for a few stops along the way that made the journey spectacular. As we headed down, our first stop was in Quilotoa. In mainland Ecuador, there are 47 active and inactive volcanoes. Quilotoa, a water filled crater lake, is the most western volcano in the Ecuadorian Andes. Upon arrival, we took a relatively easy hike up to the viewpoint. This first stop did not disappoint.
Next on our trip was the magnificent Cotopaxi Volcano. If you’re lucky, like we were, she will show herself. We didn’t drive directly to the volcano but on a clear day, you can stop at a view point and marvel in all her beauty. Unlike Quilotoa, Cotopaxi is an active volcano. The last eruption lasted from August 2015 to January 2016. It is the one of the highest volcanoes in the world and the second highest peak in Ecuador.
Lastly, we made our way to Baños. After a full first day heading south to this town, we still had enough time to wander the streets, view the street art, go into the Basilica (Church of the Virgin of the Holy Water/Nuestra Señora del Agua Santa) and grab an excellent meal at the only Indian restaurant in Baños, Sher E Punjab Rincon de la India. The gentleman, from India, moved to Ecuador a few years prior and has already built a successful business in this South American small town.
Day two started with renting bikes and going on a roughly 19 mile (~30km) ride titled Ruta de las Cascadas. Renting good bikes in Baños only cost about $10USD. When cycling along this scenic route and relatively moderate ride, you’ll encounter zip lines, cable cars, other fun rides and dozens of waterfalls including the spectacular Pailón del Diablo Waterfall (Devil’s Cauldron). Sometimes I’d be riding and go right under a waterfall feeling the mist hit me. It was unlike anything I’ve ever experienced before.
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After a long day of activity, we headed to the town to eat. For $6USD, you can get a grilled whole fish, potatoes and salad. It was the perfect meal after our trek. If you have any more energy, you could cycle back the same way you came or hop in a truck ready to take cyclists and their bikes back to town for $2USD. We chose the latter as we wanted to go to the Swing at the End of the World, where you swing over a canyon taking in stunning views of the volcano on a clear day. Lastly, we ended the night enjoying a tasty dinner at The Steak Garden, where our food was served sizzling on hot stone plates. This made for a great end to a jampacked day.
The last day, our spa day, was the best way to conclude our short time in Baños. We stayed at the Sangay Spa Hotelsurrounded by mountains and forests and luckily it was right across the street from the Termas de la Virgen, the thermal bath in which the minerals and heat come from the nearby active volcano, Tungurahua. This thermal bath has three separate pools: cool, mild and hot. The idea is to start from coldest to hottest. By the time you get to the hottest pool, you can feel the minerals at work deep inside your pores. It was such an incredible feeling and so relaxing. We spent a good half of the day there alternating between the baths and the small massage area they had set up that was so ridiculously cheap.
Afterwards, we roamed around the town feeling so relaxed, and decided to head to the market in the center of town to get some authentic Ecuadorian cuisine. Guinea Pig is one delicacy they indulge in as well as beef and pork combined with rice and salad. Prices are great and the food was tasty, even the guinea pig. After all our indulgences, we made our way to the hotel to enjoy a two hour spa session that included a body scrub and deep tissue massage. If you go to Baños and don’t partake in spa activities, what’s the point?
For a small town with approximately 15,000 inhabitants, Baños does not disappoint. There’s plenty of adventure activities, lots of good food, it’s walkable, with excessive pampering to be had and lastly, its surroundings make it a beautiful spot to hit when exploring Ecuador.
Story & Photography By Alaa Razoky