Garlic is a staple in most pantries, whether it’s dried cloves, garlic powder or garlic salt. It is also one of the oldest cultivated crops, is rich in antioxidants and has a lengthy history of both scientific and hermetical properties. While I don’t personally have garlic growing in my container garden, I have helped prepare and plant it at a local farm as part of a “crop mob.” For me, there’s something satisfying and relaxing about following a row, poking holes about a hand-width apart, and slipping plump cloves, pointy side up, into the dark soil.
There are two types of garlic: hardneck and softneck. Hardneck grows a stalk called a “scape,” which will eventually form small bulbils. It has large cloves, exhibits a milder flavor and stores best for two to four months after curing. Softneck sprouts tall leaves, much like a leek, and is easier to grow. It has more, smaller cloves, can be braided for curing and can be stored six to eight months. This is what you commonly find in grocery stores.
» Planting
Garlic is planted in the fall just before the first frost. Although you can grow smaller garlic bulbs by planting hardneck bulbils, it is faster to start with healthy, firm, unblemished cloves. Do not use cloves that have already begun to sprout or garlic from the supermarket. This garlic is often sprayed to prevent sprouting and was most likely grown in and adapted to a different climate.
Larger cloves will often produce larger bulbs. Separate the cloves from the bulb and remove any outer papery skin. Leave the individual wrapper (tunic) and scab end (basal plate) intact, plant 1-2 inches deep with the pointed side up, and space 3-6 inches apart. One clove yields one bulb.
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Plant in light, well-drained soil, and in a spot that receives full to partial sun. Cover with pesticide-free grass clippings or straw mulch to protect from harsh winter conditions. Remove the mulch in the spring, but leave a little to help suppress weeds.
» Harvesting
Garlic is harvested May-June. Stop watering plants about a month before harvesting, when leaves begin to yellow. There are three stages of garlic that are harvestable and edible: scapes (hardneck only), green garlic and fully-mature garlic.
Scapes are usually cut when the necks begin to curl and the bulbil begins to form. Some growers say that cutting scapes sends more energy to the bulb, producing larger cloves. Others argue that leaving the scapes results in garlic that can be stored longer. If left on, tall, straight scapes indicate that the garlic is ready to be harvested. Younger, chopped scapes can add a light garlicky flavor to salad, stir fry, pasta, pesto or as a grilled or broiled side dish.
Green garlic are bulbs that haven’t fully matured. These are harvested while the stalks are still green and can be used like scallions in foods.
Fully-mature garlic can be eaten fresh or cured. Harvest hardneck when scapes have straightened out and softneck when 50 percent of the outer leaves have dried and yellowed. Never wash bulbs. Instead, brush off excess dirt, bunch together by the stems (hardneck) or braid the leaves (softneck), and hang in a dry, cool, well-ventilated place for 4-6 weeks to cure.
» Pests and Diseases
While garlic is naturally resistant to most insects and diseases than most plants, it does have a few issues, like onion thrips and maggots, mites, various types of rot and viruses. Choosing healthy planting cloves, keeping your soil well-drained and rotating your crop every three years will minimize your risk of such problems. Garlic can also be used as a companion plant or made into a natural spray pesticide to protect other vegetables from a wide array of pests, and possibly even deer, moles and voles. N
By S. Michael Bennett
Photography By Joel Riner
As Featured In: 2019 Winter/Spring CDA Edition