The Mighty Mundane Onion

Onions? For crying out loud! Onions, Allium cepa, seem so commonplace. But perhaps we’ve become desensitized to their presence and forgotten how fabulous and flavorful they can be. May I inspire you?

It’s the common belief that onions originated in Central Asia but were possibly first cultivated in Iran and Pakistan. Regardless, this mighty vegetable is one of the oldest cultivated vegetables in human history (over 5,000 years, that we know of) and was just as much of a food staple on prehistoric Earth as it is today. Onions are easy to grow, simple to store, and painless to transport. They were an excellent food for overwintering and preserving when other foods didn’t last through the autumnal and winter seasonal changes. They prevented thirst, provided energy, had medicinal properties and were used for preservation in burial rituals and mummification. And they just kind of made everything taste a little better. 

Related closely to garlic, leeks, chives and shallots, onions contain the enzyme alliinase. When cut or crushed, this enzyme is released and converts a sulfide-based amino acid into the so-called “crying factor” oxide. However, the sulfur compounds in onions, as well as flavonoids, phenolic acids, saponins and pectin have a variety of health and diet benefits. 

Quercetin, the primary flavonoid found in onions, has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. As a supplement, it is often taken for heart conditions, healthy blood vessels, arthritis, bladder infections, blood sugar control, diabetes and to help kill cancer cells. Overall, onions and extracts have been shown to prevent clot formation, lower blood pressure and historically treat asthma, due to their ability to relax the bronchial muscles as well as inhibit the production of compounds that cause the bronchial muscle to spasm.

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Note: Onions do contain a small amount of oxalates. If you suffer from chronic oxalate-containing kidney stones, you should consume onions in moderation. 

Wild varieties of onions still grow all over the world, and 24 Allium species grow in Idaho alone! They also make a perfect garden companion plant for beets, cabbage, carrots, lettuce, rosemary, strawberries, tomatoes, leeks, garlic and all varieties of themselves. Don’t plant them with beans and peas, however. Another benefit of growing onions – they repel aphids, carrot fly and other harmful pests. 

When it comes to cooking, I almost always start a savory recipe with chopped or powdered onions and minced or powdered garlic. No matter what I add next for substance or seasoning, these two ingredients simply add a level of flavor that nothing else can and complement every other herb, spice and flavor you can imagine. Check out my recipe for a creamy wild onion sauce recipe that goes nicely with pasta and chicken. 

Onions can also be sweet. Think creamy onion dressing and brown sugar caramelized onions and apples. Cooking onions and caramelizing them in olive oil, especially sweet varieties like Walla Walla, Vidalia and Maui, removes much of the bulb’s pungency and allows the sweetness to shine. In fact, chocolate and onions are a surprisingly delicious combination. They can also be sweet battered with brown sugar and cinnamon as dessert onion rings. Mueller Chocolate Co. in Rockledge, Penn., has a fun story behind their chocolate covered onions that involves a comedian in the ‘80s, a comedy show gag and Ripley’s Believe It or Not Bizarre Foods. I’m offering you a chocolate onion cake that creates a more delicious fusion of these two seemingly paradoxical ingredients. Because, you know, the National Onion Association says that onions make a chocolate cake better. N

Bowtie Pasta with Garlicky Creamed Onions and Sausage

» 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil or unsalted butter
» 2-3 large garlic cloves, chopped
» 12-15 large stalks celery, sliced very thin (about 6 cups – reserve leaves for garnish)
» 1/2 medium onion, coarsely chopped
» 1 large baking potato, peeled and cut into cubes (2 cups)
» 1/2 bulb fennel, sliced thin
» 4-5 cups chicken or vegetable broth (or water)
» 1 bay leaf (optional – remove before blending)
» 1/8 cup fresh dill, or 1 tbsp dry
» 1/2 cup fresh spinach, packed (optional, for color)
» 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
» Sour cream, yogurt or heavy cream, 
» Toasted sesame seeds or raw hemp seeds

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook for 8-10 minutes, until al dente. Strain and return to the hot pot. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter, and, when melted, toss to coat.

In a skillet or cast iron pan, cook the sausage until done and a little crispy. Remove to a bowl and melt the butter in the pan with the sausage drippings.

Cut the onions with kitchen scissors into large pieces to fit into the pan (2-3 pieces per onion). Sauté over medium-high heat until they start to soften. Use tongs to turn them, making sure all surfaces get direct contact with the pan. They should be bright green with some char.

Add the garlic to the pan and cook until fragrant, about 2-3 minutes more. Pour in the cream, stir to remove any bits from the bottom of the pan. Turn the heat to low and simmer for a couple minutes, stirring often. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Serve pasta with the sausage topped with the onions and sauce. Grate parmesan on top, if desired, and enjoy hot.

Onion Cheddar Sourdough Biscuits with Onion Jam

» 1/4 cup finely chopped sweet onion
» 1/2 cup unsalted butter, frozen + 1 tbsp cold or room temperature
» 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
» 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
» 1 1/2 tsp baking powder
» 1 tsp sea salt
» 1 cup ripe sourdough starter
» 1/2 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese
» 1 egg, slightly beaten, for wash

Preheat oven to 425°F. 

In a small skillet, sauté the onion in 1 tbsp butter and the vinegar until caramelized. Set aside. 

Grate the 1/2 cup frozen butter. In a mixing bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the grated butter and work it into the flour mixture with your fingers or using the whisk attachment on an electric mixer until crumbly. Make a well in the middle and add the sourdough, onion, and cheese. Mix with a paddle attachment or your hands to form a shaggy, moist dough.

Turn onto a lightly floured surface, and pat or roll into a 1-inch thick rectangle. Fold one short edge to the middle of the dough. Fold the other short edge over the top. Press or roll out and repeat 2-4 times, depending on how layered you want your biscuits. Cut out your biscuits.

Place onto an ungreased, unlined baking sheet or a pie pan so that they are just touching. Brush with the egg wash. Bake until golden, 18-20 minutes. Enjoy hot or cold with butter.

By S. Michal Bennett
Photography By Joel Riner

As Featured In: Winter/Spring 2022 Edition