My favorite getaway for a long weekend is to the Methow (pronounced met-how) in Washington’s Okanogan County. The Methow Valley is situated north of Lake Chelan, east of the Cascade Mountains, south of Omak and west of the Columbia River. Lesser known to residents of the Inland Northwest, the Methow Valley has long been recognized as a playground by Seattle’s tech elite.
The best thing about having a birthday that falls near Presidents’ Day on a calendar is that I can usually fi nagle a birthday ski weekend to Winthrop in the Methow Valley! The Methow Valley boasts one of the largest networks of Nordic ski trails in the country with 120 miles of ski trails.
I managed to take Friday off work, neatly packed the Subaru and stowed the skis in the rocket box for the four-hour journey from Coeur d’Alene to Winthrop, a drive that I have come to enjoy over the years. The remarkable thing about the road trip to Winthrop is that there are no mountain passes, no traffic to speak of, and it’s a straightforward trek.
The relatively uneventful journey begins by heading west on Highway 2, crosses the Columbia River near the Coulee Dam and exposes a landscape reflective of the Missoula floods with evidence such assignifi cant, haphazardly placed boulders scattered through the countryside. Crossing the Columbia River again in Bridgeport, we travel south to Pateros at the confluence of the Methow and Columbia Rivers. We follow the Methow River ‘up valley’ the remaining 40 miles toward Winthrop, and I dutifully watch out for mule deer while still enjoying the scenery as the valley opens up to show its beauty. I become giddy with anticipation of what the weekend has in store with two full days and two half days to enjoy the Methow’s wintery splendor.
There are many choices for accommodations in the Valley, but I opt for Winthrop over Mazama due to better cell coverage to handle work necessities. In Winthrop, I like the Chuwuch Inn for its hearty breakfasts, friendly atmosphere, proximity to ski trails and ski waxing station. This was my birthday treat, however, so we went for the River’s Edge Resort in Downtown Winthrop. These cozy cabins are always meticulously cleaned, set up with all the comforts of home and offer private hot tubs on the deck perched over the Chewuch River. The cabins are also conveniently located next to my all-time favorite pub, the Old Schoolhouse Brewery, or OSB.
Our mid-day arrival in Winthrop allowed for a quick ski before dinner. We strolled downtown to purchase a three-day ski pass from one of the sports shops. We succumbed to the slower pace of this western themed resort town, fashioned with old west facades, wooden boardwalks and the oldest legal saloon in the state of Washington!
Our Friday afternoon ski commenced at the Winthrop Trailhead at the outdoor skating rink where we skied a blissful 10K along the Methow Community Trail. The weather had been cold, so despite the late ski start, the trails were still groomed to near perfection.
We set out on skate skis to revive our lethargic legs from being sedentary during the car ride. How I love to breathe the clean, crisp air as I ski along the river in the sunshine! We relaxed with an après-ski soak in the hot tub before heading next door to the Old Schoolhouse Brewery. The OSB features live music on Friday and Saturday nights, and we knew to arrive early to avoid a lengthy line at the door of this tiny pub. What the OSB lacks in size, it makes up for in authenticity and charm. We enjoyed the music as we sank our teeth into a burger and sipped an award-winning India Pale Ale.
Saturday morning, we drove up the hill to the lavish Sun Mountain Lodge, where we set out to enjoy the Sun Mountain Trails system. We spent the morning meandering through the woods along the bare aspen trees that dot the Beaver Pond and surrounding wetland. We skied to a hut where we quickly devoured enough calories to set back on the trail before the cold set in. When we finished our ski, I resisted the temptation to suggest an appetizer at the lodge’s Wolf Creek bar and grill. The grill offers a cozy fireplace and mesmerizing westerly view of the snowcapped Cascade Mountains, but tonight we had reservations at my favorite restaurant, the Arrowleaf Bistro. The bistro delivered on balanced acoustics, professional and friendly service and regionally inspired, fresh and tasty cuisine. It was a memorable birthday dinner to celebrate a new year of being alive.
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Our final ski day brought us to Mazama, 14 miles up valley from Winthrop. The first stop of the morning was to the Mazama Store, which promises to offer “A little bit of everything good.” There is something inexplicably special about the Mazama Store; it’s an adventure hub, specialty shop, warming hut combined with gourmet deli, bakery, and a place to stock up on staples for your cabin or enjoy a pint by the fire. After perusing the shop for Christmas or birthday gifts, which we often purchase here, we topped off our caffeine levels and enjoyed a scone before spending the day on the trails.
After a warm-up lap around the Goat Wall Loop, we followed the east side of the river trail to the Busch School Trailhead, where we crossed the river and continued up valley to the Cow Beach Shelter. The shelter was a welcome sight as we were ready for a snack and sip of the hot soup we had packed. Headed back along the river via Jack’s Trail, we came to, and stopped at, the trailhead at the Freestone Inn. Across the parking lot from the Inn is Jack’s Hut Pizza and Brews. The roaring fire in the outdoor fire pit beckoned us to thaw before heading into the hut for a brew. Our final trek down valley to Mazama was nearly effortless. The grade leading up valley was barely noticeable, but we sure enjoyed the post-brew ease of heading downhill along the valley floor. We passed under the highway via the ski-through culvert before reaching the car park in Mazama.
Our muscles had begged for repose in the spa. A soothing soak under the stars next to the sound of water churning in the Chewuch River below provided a relaxing finale to the afternoon’s exploits. I took advantage of the cabin’s well-equipped kitchen that evening by cooking in. We devoured a hearty plate of pasta with a glass of the local Lost River Winery’s Community Red blend.
Monday morning came all too soon. Exhausting our three-day ski pass (and our legs) we opted to spend the morning in town walking across the pedestrian bridges at both ends of town over the Chewuch and Methow Rivers and meandering through all the shops in between. Poking into the kitchen shop, bookstore, blown glass studio, art galleries and sipping a coffee at the bakery was a lovely way to spend the morning.
I was grateful for another extraordinary, rejuvenating week-end in the Methow and vowed to come back again soon.
The Methow Valley is indeed a getaway for all seasons. Winter offers unsurpassed Nordic trails, snowshoe and fat bike trails and backcountry skiing. Springtime delivers a prolific carpet of arrowleaf balsamroot to the hillsides, summer provides an endless number of hiking options and autumn’s colorful foliage display along the river’s banks should not be missed.
See you out on the trail. Cheers! N
By Denise Lundy
Photography By David Ronalds
As Featured In: Winter/Spring 2019 SPO Edition